3:00 a.m. Monday: Last night we started sorting through the things in Susan’s apartment and my mother’s song, “The Faucets Are Dripping,” is running through my head:
There's a wild streak of green in the sink in the kitchen,
It comes from the rill trickling out of the plumbing,
The streams from the mountains, the pools from the lea,
All run from my faucet and down to the sea.
Susan’s tiny apartment is rent-stabilized, and the landlord’s been trying to get her out since forever.
You can't ask the landlord to put in a washer,
He'd rather you move than to put in a washer,
The faucets are dripping, they sound in my ears,
The tap in the bathroom's been running for years.
It’s
the tap in the kitchen that’s been running for years, and it isn’t just
dripping, it’s dribbling. Fills a glass in forty seconds (a thousand
one, a thousand two...) multiplied by who knows how many years
multiplied by who knows how many landlords.
If
we wanted to move to New York we could have Susan’s
apartment--inheritance is the only way you can get a rent-stabilized
apartment in Greenwich Village--but we don’t. It’s a back apartment in a
quiet building, but the minute you go out, there you are in New York,
and it’s just too noisy and fast for us. When I visited New York as a
kid, my mother explained that the reason New Yorkers talk so fast is
that they have to say everything they want said before the next El comes
along and drowns out the conversation. No Els now, but trucks and
sirens do the same thing, and on Sixth Avenue, the sound of the subway
comes up through the asphalt like the roar of some great underground
beast. (Well, not really through the asphalt, it’s coming up through the
station stairway behind you which you don’t notice, but that’s the
effect.)
The
fat of the land: Every restaurant we’ve had breakfast in serves three
pats of butter with two pieces of toast except the one I’m in now, which
serves four
pats of butter with two pieces of toast. The Californian in New York
notices on every diner menu the “California Salad” consisting of cottage
cheese, jello, fresh fruit. Cottage cheese, check. Fresh fruit, check.
But jello? Wrong state, wrong whole time zone. And on the window ledge
of our usual diner, a pot of artificial nasturtiums. I don’t think I’ve
ever seen an artificial nasturtium plant before.
Susan
loved to cook, turning out exquisite meals from
her tiny kitchen alcove, but she loved to eat out, too. Here’s a recent
photo of an evening out in New York.
I
had been resisting the pastries at Reggio’s, but I saw some too cute to
pass up. They looked like little brown clamshells, elongated front to
back. I asked what they were. They have ricotta in them, the server
said. I tried one. Oh, yum. Crunchy crust and little orange peel
thingies in the ricotta. I asked what they were called. Sfogliatella.
Good old Wikipedia has a photo. They’re cuter in person.
WARNING:
We had been resisting cell phones, but Claudia needed one for some work
she’s doing so she got Metro PCS, cheap but local. Before we left for
this trip, she called to get the national coverage. She set payment up
from her bank, but Metro neglected to tell her that she also needed to
reprogram her phone. When we arrived, it wouldn’t work. She called and
found out that the technology permitted it to be reprogramed only while
still in California. Luckily, Susan had a cell which Claudia can use for
the zillion calls she’s needed to make and receive here, but she can’t
check any messages from her Metro cell till she gets home. If you have a
local service, watch out for this.
Saturday: So I’m standing in line at the corner chain drugstore. On the counter is a special display box of
Chicken Soup for the Mother’s Soul, Chicken Soup for the Woman’s Soul,
Chicken Soup for the Mother’s and Daughter’s Soul, Chicken Soup for the
Scrapbooker’s Soul and I wonder if the next one out will be Chicken Soup for the Author Who Has Sold His Soul. I mean I have nothing against scrapbookers, but...ya know?
In
the real world, City Hall has plans for Washington Square: moving the
fountain to align it with the arch, shrinking the dog park and moving it
closer to the street, dangerous for getting dogs in and out and folks
passing on the sidewalk won’t like the smell, more concentrated in a
smaller area. They’ll close parts of the park for three years to
accomplish this. Now, the fountain is shut off on Sunday afternoons and
becomes a stage for magicians, fire-eaters, street theater. The dog run,
maintained and supported by volunteers, is not just for the dogs. It’s a
place where dog-owners meet and make friends—which helps make the
neighborhood a community. If the city wants to improve the park, they
could just take out the three fenced-off ugly asphalt mounds in the
south-west corner, fix some cracks in the concrete, and pony up some
money for maintenance of the restrooms and such, but that, of course,
would be too subtle. They want something showy for their money: a more
spectacular fountain which would take more water and energy, both in
short supply, and might not lend itself so well to weekend theater. So
there’s a sort of be-in at the park tomorrow afternoon. I hope we have
time to go. We will definitely contribute some money to the fight, in
Susan’s memory. She was at the dog run every day she was in town.
I
have read that New York is supposed to be naturally “green” because so
many people walk (this is true, and a delight) and have small, easily
heated and cooled apartments as opposed to the supersized houses of the
exurbs. Yeah, but there are all those dripping faucets. And I just read
in the NY Times about an energy-conscious guy who walked along a New
York street closing shop doors on a hot day. Policy in many stores is to
crank up the air conditioning and leave doors open on hot days, giving
passers-by a blast of cold air to entice them inside. When a proprietor
followed him, tapped him on the shoulder and accused him of closing the
door, the guy asked what law, exactly, was he violating? Now he wants to
get a law passed making the open-door policy illegal.
Sunday:
When we went to the dog run, the sign for today’s event was down and
the wind was blowing so we kept working on Susan’s apartment, finding
old family jewelry of mostly sentimental value, letters, books. We only
wanted a couple of the books, the rest we carted down to the sidewalk
and notified the guys who sell books off tables on Sixth Avenue who came
for them right away. We’ve recycled a whole lot of paper. People say
“oh, that’s so California” but they do it too, big piles of clear
plastic bags of recyclables on the sidewalks every week.
Too
early Monday: Can’t sleep again, can’t even read in the bathroom due to
lousy hotel design. Turning on the light turns on the noisy fan, and
the switch is in the room, not the bathroom. Dinner last night with one
of Susan’s friends at the Cornelia Street Cafe. When I told her about
writing limericks most mornings--but not while I’m here because I
haven’t been able to check that email so far--she gave me a word to
write one about: ort.
The maitre de said with a snort,
No, you can’t have a bag for your ort.
He thought he was classy
But we remained sassy.
We sat ’round and sang “Hold the Fort.”
I
had to tell the friend that “Hold the Fort” was an old union song, and
you have to know that I wrote the limerick on the bag I was taking our
leftovers back to Susan’s in. Every time we both order dinner (instead
of splitting with added salad) we take half the meat home for lunch.
Funny how you always get too much meat, usually too much starch, and
hardly ever too much salad or veggies.
We
are surrounded by NYU here, and the students are all packing up to go
home as we pack up Susan’s things. Tee-shirt spotting: Five out of Four
People Have Trouble with Fractions. We already knew some of the nearby
restaurants, the fancy drugstore and the photo place from visiting
Susan, but we are learning the non-tourist places now: natural food
store, lawyer, package-and-mail place over on Grove and Bleecker where I
went today to send some things to Susan’s friend in Southern
California. It was farther west than I’d walked before, and I found
myself on Dave Van Ronk
Street. Near the lawyer’s apartment on East 11th was Eleanor
Roosevelt’s home-away-from-Washington while FDR was president. Susan’s
building was once John Philip Sousa’s house, and just west on the same
block stands the building where Willa Cather wrote her first novel and
Richard Wright wrote Black Boy.
Usually
I don’t notice that I’m seventy-two, but yesterday I felt ninety-two. I
took two naps. I thought all this was just wearing me out, till we went
to see the lawyer at 6:00 p.m. and she was complaining about being
wiped out by the humidity. Oh. Humidity. I don’t even look at that part
of the weather forecast; in Berkeley it doesn’t mean much. In New York
it does. Today it’s 94%. Yikes. Right now I feel okay though. As I was
going down to breakfast I was thinking that my friends in California
were still asleep in darkness, and that reminded me of one of my
favorite poems, “You, Andrew Marvell” by
Archibald MacLeish. The line in my mind was “...how swift, how secretly
the shadow of the night comes on....” And here in Greenwich Village
it’s NYU law school graduation day. I saw a couple of men in purple
robes and realized that it’s only academics and nuns who still wear
medieval clothing.
Saturday,
in a rented SUV (forgive us, for we have sinned) we’re off to take some
of Susan’s crochet art, ceramics, paintings and family photographs up
to her little house in the country near Hudson. Crossed town on Houston
Street, looked up as we neared the river to see a man on a trapeze on
the roof of the river tour parking structure, silhouetted against the
sky, swooping back and forth, letting go, dropping and bouncing high
from the net. Drove up the Taconic Parkway, no billboards, no buildings
visible from the road, Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park and Donald J.
Trump State Park in quick succession. Susan’s house is in a little
village, just a post office and houses. I’m hit again by that amazing
contrast between NYC and upstate New York. Stars! I haven’t seen them in
weeks. Susan’s friend Chadwick, who miraculously shows up for dinner at
the same restaurant in Hudson without anyone planning it, tells us he
took some New York teen-agers to an environmental action conference in
the woods in Wisconsin. Some of them had never been out of the five
boroughs and were astounded by the stars. Just sat and stared. The next
morning driving into Hudson for breakfast we see a robin hopping in the
road, just catch the flash of red breast before he flies off. Then a
sign saying “Federation of Polish Sportsmen.” I like the specificity.
Susan’s house is a marvel, a combination of antiques and kitsch and
cutesy and high art. But, alas, it is inhabited by her three cats,
awaiting their move to California, and I am sneezing, sneezing,
sneezing, much worse than in her apartment, though they were gone only a
few days when we got to NYC. Is there an expiration date on cat dander?
A possibility, though my theory is that that gummy yellow air-pollution
film that comes to coat every exposed wall and object in Manhattan just
glues the dander down, so it doesn’t bother my nose, while the clean
country air lets it fly.
We
thought we would get to meet Edythe, Susan’s maybe ten-year-old dog,
but we got a call before we left Manhattan saying that Edythe had
uncharacteristically peed on Chadwick’s dining room floor, he had
cleaned it up and let her out, five minutes later he went into his back
yard to check on her and found her lying under a little evergreen tree,
dead.
Susan with Jazz (two dogs before Edythe) in her country backyard.
Monday, back in Greenwich Village. Sign over a store-front door: THE PITA PIT. Sign on
the door: FOR RENT. Could it have been the name? I always thought the
U-Haul slogan, Adventures in Moving, was a bad choice too. I want moving
to be totally without adventure. For instance. We came with two
suitcases and go home with four, carrying some of Susan’s crochet art
and some of her artfully chosen clothes that fit Claudia. We got to La
Guardia airport and found the hotel had only loaded three into the taxi.
We called, and the desk clerk came with a driver in the hotel car to
the airport with the missing suitcase. So we started through security
with not much time to spare. The man at the funeral home had advised us
to get a wooden urn rather than metal for going through the x-ray. But
it didn’t work. The ashes were too dense for the x-rays to penetrate.
Happens sometimes, said the security guy. So I had to go back to the
ticket counter to check my backpack with the urn in it. They were
perfectly nice about it, though we each had two bags already checked. So
between the suitcase and the ashes, we barely made the plane.
ATTACK
OF THE FLYING DUST BUNNIES. Good clouds flying into Houston—towering
thunderheads, some windblown, like successive stages of an explosion.
Inside the airport, other strange atmospheric conditions. Dinner in
Bubba’s Bayou City Grill, with ceiling fans. After we got our water,
grey fluff rained down from the ceiling. The guys at the next table
said, “Asbestos?” We asked the waiter for new water, explaining why, and
he smiled and said, “Oh, yeah, they sped up the fans,” and he brought
clean water. Got back to the gate and found that the two-hour layover
had been stretched to two-and-a-half, then three, finally four. We got
in around midnight, but of course that was three a.m. New York time. So
we were in every way glad to be home.
©2007 by Nancy Schimmel